Dressed in old clothes and dowdy hats, the group of men and women huddled against the railing of the outdoor platform, peering into apparatuses ranging from simple binoculars to expensive-looking telescopes on tripods. After some minutes of intense concentration, the group relaxed again on wooden benches, enjoying the fall sunshine, chatting convivially and sharing observations.

From September 1 to November 30, Cape May, at the southern tip of New Jersey, is a haven for birders vying to surpass last year’s record of raptor observations. Thousands of hawks, ospreys, merlins and kestrels converge on Cape May Point on their way to Central and South America, some going as far as the southernmost tip of the continent. The birders’ observations are recorded daily on a scoreboard that carries records from previous years.

Billing itself as “America’s Original Beach Resort,” Cape May is a delightful place to visit in the off-season. Aside from birding, there is lots to do, and the weather can even be sunny and warm enough to tempt you to the beach, though few venture into the water without a wetsuit.

To really enjoy the town, I recommend bringing or renting bicycles. There are several places to get simple seven-speed bikes (which is all you need), including Congress Hall and Cape Island Bike Rentals. You eliminate the hassle of sitting in traffic and of having to find a parking spot, which is time-consuming even in the off-season. But more importantly, you get to really enjoy the beauty of the town, which includes a riot of Victoriana, with many of the homes the still privately owned.

On a recent perfect fall weekend, I stayed at the Cape Winds Motel and spent Saturday biking. I don’t particularly recommend Cape Winds except for its price ($100 a night); it is so bare bones that not only is there no pool, coffee pot or hairdryer, there is no place to hang your bath towels, let alone beach towels. However, it is right on Lafayette Street, meaning it is noisy but within a short bike of beaches, shops and restaurants.

Beach Avenue is fascinating to bike along because of its mixture of charm and hardscrabble reality. Unlike some seaside resorts, Cape May has a healthy dose of year-round residents, and there are cafes and diners whose ambiance in no way targets tourists. Its harbor is a working fisherman’s port, and its Victorian houses rub up against one-story ranch houses of hardworking residents.

The town also appeals to the nostalgia in all of us: The aging movie, now closed, begs for donations to preserve its historical legacy (apparently, box office sales weren’t enough).

Farther along is the legendary Congress Hall, where my grandfather used to vacation in the’40s. It recently received a facelift, but is in no way a luxury hotel, with its small rooms, oft-painted walls and quaint double doors (the outer one has slats, so you can lock your room but still get an ocean breeze, although now the hotel is air-conditioned). Like other Beach Avenue hotels, however, it now commands luxury prices.

To visit the birders, I zigged up to Sunset Boulevard and headed out to Cape May Point State Park.

This tiny municipality is also known for its lighthouse, which you can visit when the park is open. For a fee of $12, you can climb 199 steps on the circular metal staircase for a glorious view from the platform close to the top.

Built in 1859 but still fully functioning (and of course, automated), the lighthouse is operated by the Coast Guard, which has a training center in Cape May. The light is visible 24 miles out to sea and flashes every 15 seconds. Owned by the State of New Jersey, the site is leased by the Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts, which is responsible for it restoration. Since 1991, over $2 million has been spent to create this delightful attraction. (I heard lots of complaining and puffing on the way up, but the view is worth it, and the weary can amuse themselves with informative displays in each of the many windows that light the stairs.)

From the top, one gets a good look at the birding platform, whose several levels are thoughtfully provided with benches and ramps to accommodate the dozens of enthusiasts who crowd it throughout the fall. For the less-fanatical, there are three nature trails, which are unexpectedly made of recycled plastic and offer views of different habitats, including marsh, dunes and beach.

And everywhere you can see the birds.

Happy Traveling!

Captions: 1. From September to November, birders flock to Cape May Point State Park, at the southernmost tip of New Jersey, to view and catalog the migrating birds. 2. Cape May’s beaches can be delightful in the fall, when the summer crowds are gone. 3. Every house along Beach Avenue is worth a second look. 4. The harbor is still home to working fishermen. 5. Nature walks at Cape May Point provide a plethora of bird sightings. Photos by Thomas Simonet