The rock formations loom out of the water like the coils of a prehistoric monster, whose “beak” juts out to sea amid plumes of creamy spray. This trip, the sky is an endless blue reflected back by the restless, glittering ocean. Looming over the natural beauty, a huge white cross atop a high, rocky hill is silhouetted against the blue.

 The termination of a striking isthmus dividing the Atlantic and the Caribbean at the far eastern end of the island of Guadeloupe, Pointe des Chateaux (the Point of Chateaus) greets you not only with stunning natural beauty, but also with strange and awe-inspiring views. The island is one of my favorite getaways (for an overview of its attractions, see:

http://photoandtravel.com/spotlightMay.html; http://photoandtravel.com/spotlightjune.html).

But this destination, particularly handy if you’re staying in St. Francois, Ste. Anne or Le Moule, is worthy of special attention (http://www.guadeloupe-info.com). 

My  favorite way to see it is as part of an afternoon bike ride, very doable for anyone of average fitness. The best place to rent is in the bustling town of St. Francois, where pricey tourist shops rub elbows with open-air markets selling fruits and spices. We were first attracted to Dom Location (Dom Rentals) by the friendly, can-do personality of Dom himself. At this writing, he seemed to be the only game in town. It must be noted that many of his velos (bikes) have gears that don’t work and seats that don’t adjust, so you need to be picky. (On a recent visit, Mme. Dom, a cell phone glued to her ear, was little help.) This trip, my bike worked fine, but emitted random grunts that were a bit worrisome. However, the ride is so easy that the state of the bikes doesn’t matter much. 

The exit from St. Francois is a bit hairy, with buzzing traffic and narrow streets; the sidewalks are narrow also, so if you ride on them, you imperil the pedestrians. Soon, however, you pass the small country airport, bend past a collection of beach-style eateries, and you’re on your sunny way. 

One of the things that makes this route so appealing, as it snakes its way along the narrow isthmus between the ocean and the sea, is the possibility of frequent, tantalizing stops to swim or just drink in the view. The road clings to the Caribbean shoreline, where seemingly impenetrable growth in fact has frequent breaks, and shady tracks suddenly open up into a glistening beach or rocky promontory. No two are alike, but the sandy beaches are usually distinguished by a few cars parked at their edges and, unfortunately, quantities of trash on the access track. Once you arrive at the sea, with its view of the curving bay surmounted in the distance by the gleaming cross, you feel the trip has already been worth it. On a recent visit, I picnicked on one such secluded spot, watching the waves lap at the rocks and enjoying the stunning scenery.  Adding interest along the way are numerous restaurants, some overlooking the water, and a number of artist’s studios — best visited, perhaps, when one is not biking! 

Arrival at Les Pointes des Chateaux is heralded by lines of parked cars, and new access to the Atlantic on the left. This long, white beach is one of the most interesting and rewarding I have seen. Guarded by a barrier reef, it affords views of crashing surf a safe distance from the swimming area. These are particularly striking to the left, where soaring spray travels down the reef like a row of dominoes. This same current sweeps the quiet swimming area also; there is no danger of being swept out to sea, but keep an eye on your things — you may find yourself emerging from the water a ways downwind of where you entered! 

Straight ahead, one is treated with the impressive cliffs of the island of Desirade (Desired One), and to the right are the serpentine rocks backed by the watchtower-like hilltop cross. As you walk towards this amazing combination of natural and man-made sights, you pass a charming beachside restaurant “pieds a l’eau,” where guests’ feet dabble ankle-deep in the quiet bay as they dine.

 Unlocking your bikes (be careful — a watch was stolen from the handlebars of one), you can ride almost to the Pointe, home to numerous vendors and another restaurant. You can buy shell jewelry, gauzy towels and coconut ice cream churned as you watch. Beyond lies the beach and the back of the “serpent,” a tumultuous rocky area in which it is forbidden to swim. It is fascinating to watch the constant, pale waves sweeping in from the ocean, only to explode in flashing foam. 

A few years ago, the government attempted to close the winding, rocky path to the cross (it was amusing to watch, over the years, how the “Interdit” sign was knocked to the ground, trampled and finally eliminated as the public streamed past it). Apparently Guadeloupe ultimately acceded to popular demand — 150 brand new, evenly distributed and attractively designed stone steps now make the climb easily accessible to sandaled, even bare feet (although I don’t recommend the latter). And it is well worth the trip. The vista of islands, ocean and Guadeloupean shore line, including the lagoon-spotted isthmus you have just traveled, amazes the eye — and is guided by thoughtfully placed signs with maps. 

It is a good idea to be on your way back by about 4:30. Dom Location only stays open until 6 p.m. (18 hres.), and darkness sweeps in quickly. You can complete your adventure with an aperetif at one of St. Francois’ many informal restaurants, the most interesting of which surround the active marina.

Happy Traveling! 

Photos: 01. Numerous secluded pocket beaches dot the road to Pointes des Chateaux. 02. The Atlantic beach features a brisk current and spectacular surf pounding the barrier reef. 03. A huge cross overlooks the serpentine rock formations. 04. A brief climb is rewarded with spectacular views.