The mountain looms, practically freestanding, to more than 3,000 feet, with the authentic town of Brownsville nestled at its feet. Decorated at this season with gleaming ski trails, Mount Ascutney 's characteristic shape and relative lack of foothills make it more impressive and beautiful than neighboring giants Okemo and Killington, Vermont, which are folded into the Green Mountain range. A striking sight in any season, Ascutney has much to offer the intrepid vacationer.

 First — since ‘tis the season — the skiing. As I coasted down “Easy Rider” on packed, groomed powder under blue skies a week before Christmas, one important advantage of the resort was abundantly obvious — the lack of crowds. On my trip up, the chairlift had been half empty; at no time during my afternoon did I have to wait in line. Coming down, I knew the sound I heard behind me was my photographer's skis — and no one else's. I passed a mother and tiny child, cheerfully tethered together by wide pink reins, and a group of eight adult beginners whose instructor already knew their names. The ski rental shop had had only one other customer, and the attendant was cheerful, friendly and informative.

Ascutney Mountain Resort, a feisty family-owned business, in many ways can't compete with its conglomerate neighbors. But it has two important advantages: no crowds and low cost. The two of us rented all equipment and could ski all day for $100. Not apiece. Together. (That was a Tuesday pre-season promotion; see end of article for upcoming packages.)

Too good to be true? Yes and no. For the skier, even the green (novice) trails have their steep, narrow moments, and the diamonds and double-diamonds (expert trails) have much more of the same. There is no green trail from the top; the snow is mostly man-made, and there can be bare spots (for skiing conditions, be certain to check out www.skicentral.com/ascutney.html ).

The resort itself is unassuming and not very luxurious. Things are a little frayed around the edges. The gym equipment dates from the early ‘80s, and water and chlorine odors from the Olympic-sized indoor and outdoor pools permeate the old-fashioned locker rooms.

But the self-reliant visitor who isn't too picky will find much to appreciate here, in all seasons.   First, Mount Ascutney itself is enormously appealing. Flanked by Little Ascutney, it is a landmark around which all area roads must detour. It has been painted and photographed innumerable times by local artists, whose work is available in local craft shops and at the annual Fourth of July craft sale in Brownsville.

It is also home to several, well-marked hiking trails. In the summer, you can hike to the top of the mountain (el. 3,150 feet) in a matter of hours and gain spectacular views of the surrounding area. These hikes are lushly green, frequently punctuated by the delicious sound of running brooks, and (depending on the trail) the sight of flowing waterfalls. For more views, simply hike the ski trails; you can watch Brownsville recede into the distance, with its picturesque church steeple showing over the curve of the resort.

I recently completed a November hike, whose vistas astonished me. With leaves on the ground, the trail was surrounded by openness, through which the setting sun shone richly, casting color and shadows with abandon on the gullies, pines and winter-bare hardwoods.

For the less athletic there is Ascutney State Park , flung across much of the rest of the mountain behind the resort. Here, you can drive most of the way up in the comfort of your vehicle, then hike the brief remaining distance to a sturdily constructed viewing platform. On a clear, sunny day, you can watch the Connecticut River roll by, and pick out the peaceful towns and surrounding farms.

Another fun summer activity is the Brownsville Bean Supper. Like so many things in Vermont, it is founded on poverty and thrift, and it echoes those values even in the 21 st century. During the Depression, the town took to serving meals of baked beans, bread, cole slaw and pie (what fare could be more nutritionally incorrect in these days of no fat or cholesterol?) and this tradition continues on Saturdays in July and early August. It's like a taste of the past to be served by courteous youngsters at family-style tables.  The event is so popular, the lines start forming at 4:30 , and if you don't have your ticket by 5, you may not get in! The woman sitting next to me, who drove an hour for the meal, informed me it's the cheapest night out on the town there is — $5 a person.

For more information on Brownsville Inns and Bed-and-Breakfasts, visit:

www.4-vermont.com/Brownsville.html .

The resort also offers tennis, with a number of clay and concrete courts and a round robin in the summer — again, you never have to wait, and you will get personalized attention if you show up for the latter. One recent Fourth of July, it hosted the Vermont Symphony Orchestra and fireworks. The current owners are making a push to attract the budget-conscious: Packages include slopeside lodging, lift tickets, sports and fitness center, full kitchen, and free stay for kids under 6 after paid minimum room occupancy is met. Martin Luther King Weekend Package offers 3 nights or more, $139 per night adult, $125 junior; and midweek getaway packages, including a slopeside lodging in a condominium suite, lift tickets and all resort amenities at $75 per person. There's a child-care center and children's skiing program, as well as various activities for children, teens and adults (visit www.ascutney.com  for details).

 If you are willing to rough it a little, the beauty and simplicity are definitely worth it. Happy traveling!