It was a few minutes to midnight, and some players from the three other bands joined the fourth on stage. The man at the microphone was leading the enthusiastic throng of dancers in a song that involved waving hands and repeating the word, “Mano.” Then the countdown to midnight and the New Year began: “Cinqo, quattro, tres, duo …” The cheerful crowd broke into a stadium-volume cheer, balloons rained down, and lovers kissed. It was New Year's Eve in San Juan, Puerto Rico, and it was a lot of fun.

I ended up there by mistake. Traveling to another island in the Caribbean, my plane was delayed three hours in Philadelphia , and I missed my connection in San Juan. American Airlines, with admirable efficiency, produced vouchers for taxis to and from the Courtyard by Marriott Isla Verde Beach Resort, a free overnight stay there (worth $300 on this peak night), and dinner and breakfast buffets.

What I didn't expect was how much fun the evening was.  As several staffers told me, “We Puerto Ricans make a party out of everything.”  In fact, according to the Puerto Rico Herald, the holiday party on this happy island lasts from before Christmas until Jan. 6, Three Kings Day (Epiphany) (for the article, see www.puertorico-herald.org/issues/2003/vol7n52/PRSST0752-en.shtml). Folks stock up on gifts and liquor, as all three holidays during this time involve exchanging presents.

And they go out to party. Although the Courtyard Marriott

(www.sjcourtyard.com ) was at 80 percent capacity Dec. 31, 2003, many of the revelers were locals, filling the three dining areas with laughter and good cheer. The bands, Conjunto Sommos, Orquesta Sabor Cliente, Saboriches del Merengue, and Pleneros de la 22 Abajo, ranged from an acoustic and electric guitar duo with a drum machine to a full brass band playing jazz and salsa. They spelled each other, so music was continuous from 6 p.m. to 3 a.m. , with the main focus on the Picante Lobby Bar and Lounge, which even in non-holiday season features daily live entertainment.

Since December and January are peak season in Puerto Rico , San Juan's many hotels and eateries compete to provide the best celebration. In 2003, for example, merengue star Manny Manuel appeared at the Condado Plaza Hotel, where $175 bought a four-course dinner, music, and a bottle of champagne.  The Ritz-Carleton featured an outdoor party with merengue and American pop music by Now or Never for $125, not including liquor. The San Juan Marriott Resort featured live jazz music, a five-course meal and a bottle of champagne for $300.

Then there were numerous bars and restaurants with live music and no cover charge. There was even an informal singles event at the Oyster Bar, and a rock'n'roll sports bar, the Lupis Mexican Grill,  that  caters  to the college   crowd.

At the Marriott Courtyard, $25 was all that was needed to purchase the live music and a very adequate buffet: a seafood salad with interesting chunks of octopus, conch and the like in oil;  a green salad and a delicious potato salad; mahi mahi cooked in herbs; roasted chicken; rice and beans; and a dessert table.

Sodas and a glass of sparkling wine were included, but all alcoholic drinks were a pricey $9. At 8:30 p.m., the two indoor restaurant areas were packed and had a waiting list (I was asked if I had a reservation, though the promotional materials maintained the event was first-come, first-served). However, I was accommodated immediately on the terrace, which was a bit windy but right on the beach, affording lovely views of the sand, palms and creamy waves.

After dinner, with some time to while away, I amused myself in the small casino found right off the lobby/eating area. After a dizzying variety of slot machines quickly diminished my $20 to $11.50, I spent an amusing time watching a blackjack table. Players were cheerful and friendly, a far cry from their frequently tightlipped, stonefaced counterparts I have observed in Atlantic City.

Then I made my way to the crowded, cheerful dance floor, managing to wiggle to the front, where almost immediately the energetic, boisterous countdown began. People cheered; the band broke into an up-tempo, salsa version of “Auld Lang Syne”; the beaming man next to me shook hands with everyone in reach.

It's not too early to think about next year's holidays, and you might want to consider heading to San Juan. The money is American; many people speak English (although curiously enough neither taxi driver did); and the flight is only a little farther than Florida. I know I will consider returning next New Year's Eve — this time on purpose!  Happy traveling!

You may e-mail me at:

EGraham@photoandtravel.com