The morning didn’t start off well. I awoke to the sound of rain — June is just the start of the dry season in Rwanda. Then we took a wrong turn on our way to the Volcanoes National Park headquarters and arrived later than we meant to. Next was a bone-jarring ride up unpaved roads, followed by a steep ascent on a dirt path whose starting altitude of 8,600 feet had recently arrived visitors gasping instantly. Then came a lengthy slither through dense, damp undergrowth, ankle-grabbing vines and various sorts of vicious pricker bushes.

Suddenly, we rounded a large bush and came face to face with a huge, black seated gorilla, who blinked at us sleepily.

Seeing the mountain gorillas, which have become Rwanda’s national symbol, is an unforgettable experience. The family I saw, named Amahoro or Peace, was endlessly fascinating. Although the patriarch, the huge silverback, mostly dozed, several active youngsters tumbled, chased each other and traded punches, all mere feet away from where we sat. At one point, a young male pounded his chest and feinted toward the visitors, but was easily deterred by the guide. A highlight was the newest member of the clan, just weeks old, whose little, ancient face was clearly visible in his mother’s arms.

Our spellbound group was allowed to stay for an hour, for which privilege each of us had paid $375. At first, the price made me balk, until I realized how desperately needed these funds are. Preserving the safety and habitat of the mountain gorillas is central to Rwanda’s emerging tourist trade, as well as a duty. Poachers regularly try to shoot the parents in order to steal live gorilla babies, which they sell to public and private zoos. Armed guards patrol the mountains daily; several accompanied us on our trek, along with our well-informed and friendly guides (above).

The mountain gorillas alone are a compelling reason to visit Rwanda. (There are many others; some are detailed in last month’s column ) The tiny nation of 8 million people in the land the size of Maryland has stabilized its government and moved on from its past, and deserves considerable respect and appreciation.

The gorilla treks are best in the dry season, June through September, when visitors go out daily. You meet at the park headquarters at 7 a.m., where you are assigned to different groups. (The most desirable is said to be the Susa family, which is the largest, but also the farthest away — up to five hours, compared to an hour a half for our trek.) You can stay very cheaply in the town of Gisenyi (from $7 to $20 a night), but then you face a fairly long drive in the morning. Alternatively, a short, if bone-jarringly rough, drive from the park headquarters is the Kinigi Guest House, whose profits go to help Rwanda’s women who were widowed, raped and otherwise left vulnerable by the genocide. Because it was full, I stayed at the Mountain Gorilla’s Nest nearby.

This hotel is situated in a spectacular location, with elegant grounds and, surprisingly, a golf course overlooked by volcanoes. Be warned: It was chilly at 7,000 feet; I was grateful for my several fleeces and warm nightclothes. Braziers were brought to warm us during dinner, but there was no heat in the bedrooms, and the trip from the shower to the bed chilled the feet.

The rooms were small and awkward, housed two to a trapezoidal-shaped building. These were arranged around a beautiful central courtyard where we enjoyed a picnic after our hike. I was told the golf course was substandard, but it provided lovely open space for onlookers. The view from my porch was glorious.

An hour’s drive on paved roads through spectacular mountain views brought us to one of the most beautiful sights in Rwanda, the Hotel Kivu Sun on the glorious shores of Lake Kivu. Just getting there gave an amazing glimpse of the culture. Around us, every inch of the steep hills we passed was neatly cultivated, and the backbreaking labor of trekking goods up the winding roads was done on women’s heads, or by men on a bicycle turned pack mule. In the valleys, acres of tea fields were being picked by hand.

The Hotel Kivu Sun is also amazing for its luxery suites which included a spacious sitting room, in my case a huge porch overlooking the lake, and two bathrooms, for 150 Euros a night.

I didn’t try the boat rides, but I did venture down to the Paradis Restaurant,

whose spectacular view of the lake was enhanced by beautifully cultivated flower beds. The meal was preceded by ceremonious handwashing at the table, but fish we ate there proved thin and bony.

We also walked through Gisenyi, a small but teeming town with a large Catholic school and church. The country in general doesn’t cater to tourists, and a knowledge of French definitely eases the way, but it was a fascinating glimpse of local culture, and we were able to buy water and beer at one of the tiny shops.

Happy traveling!

Captions: 1. Tourists can get within feet of the giant but gentle mountain gorillas. 2. The friendly guides locate the animals, then chart your path through the jungle. 3. Beautiful Lake Kivu marks Rwanda’s western border. 4. The Hotel Kivu Sun offers both luxury and affordability. 5. Lunch at the Paradis Restaurant offers gorgeous views of the flora and the lake. Photos by Thomas Simonet.