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Carnival.
Calypso. Callaloo. These three words might be the first that
come to mind when you think about Trinidad . But, once you
discover the abundant natural areas of this beautiful island
you could substitute those first three words with bicycling,
hiking and kayaking. Trinidad differs from the other Caribbean
islands in that it was once attached to the South American
continent and therefore exhibits features that are typical
of that land mass. The mountains on the island are an extension
of the Andes which boasts 430 species of birds and 617 species
of butterflies and consists of several diverse ecosystems
ranging from lowland swamps to mountain rainfore. A “don't
want to miss” is the Asa Wright Nature Center is the destination
for birdwatchers from around the world.
sts.
The
first day of the tour consisted of road cycling from the Asa
Wright Bird Center. This road climbed 900 feet over a mile
and a half. A tough ride for the first ride of the season
for an Ohio flatlander. But, as our guide was also an expert
birder, we stopped to catch our breaths and spot birds in
the jungle and learn about the natural history of the area.
The reward for this continuous climb was a beautiful view
of the valley below and a fast downhill into the town of Brasso
Seco.
After
some free time, we wolfed down a hearty dinner and spent some
time playing cards with the local children who sang impromptu
songs for us and engaged us in conversation. After dark we
packed for the next segment of the trip, an overnight backpacking
adventure to Paria Beach where we would camp and set up a
watch to see the nesting leatherback turtles that come ashore
to lay their eggs.
Our
hike followed an old donkey path over a trail that has not
been maintained for 80 years. However, it had been so well
cut long ago that the trail has survived even without routine
maintenance. Our two guides used their machetes to clear obstacles
from the paths and pointed out the plants and their uses along
the way. Several landslides made parts of the trail treacherous,
but we safely negotiated any obstacles with the assistance
of our excellent guides. We ate our lunch along a river where
we purified water to replenish our supply for the rest of
the day. Finally we heard the sound of the surf and
got glimpses of the Caribbean Sea. The last bits
of the trail descended to the beach and what a relief to finally
place our feet on the sand. We set up camp and then frolicked
in the ocean until dinnertime. Although we were all
tired from the walk, which was the first backpacking trip
for most of us, we were also excited about the prospect of
seeing the sea turtles come ashore. We set up watches
and those who tried for brief rests would be alerted when
a turtle was spotted.
Around
2 a.m., the turtle alert went out and we all went to watch
a turtle make its
way back to sea. We had missed its arrival so continued our
watch. Around daybreak, we received another alert and
hastened to the beach to see the huge leatherback making her
way to the beach to find the perfect spot to lay her eggs.
She methodically dug a hole with her flippers,
a feat that took a good half hour to accomplish. We
patiently waited and expected her to lay her eggs. In spite
of us trying to be inconspicuous, she seemed to have been
spooked and left the spot without laying. She
turned around and slowly made her way back to the sea. We
returned to our tents for a few minutes of sleep, and I, for
one, wondered how I would survive the next day on the little
sleep I had had that night.
We
started out the next day later than planned and immediately
climbed back into the hills. We climbed up and down numerous
times. At the top of one climb we took a detour to a
rock overlooking the sea. The excellent view distracted
us from the tired feet and sore shoulders that the group suffered.
After
about 7 miles we finally reached the hotel just outside of
Blanchisseuse. For me, I think the idea of a hot
shower, comfortable bed and sleep made the second day seem
much easier than the first, but I was the only person in the
group who felt this way. We showered quickly and met
for lunch. A lagoon just a short walk from the
hotel offered another spot for a quick dip and cooling off.
After our lunch, most of us chose to nap until
dinner to make up for the lack of sleep from the previous
night.
The
next morning, we mounted our bicycles for a trip to Las Cuevas,
the beach where we would start the kayaking portion of the
tour. The road started out with rolling hills and then
suddenly transformed into long continuous climbs.
Eventually, we crested the top of the last incline and sped
down to the beach where we abandoned the bikes in exchange
for kayaks. The seas had been rough earlier in the week,
so we weren't sure until today about the status of the kayak
portion of the trip. Depending on the sea condition
we would either sea kayak or river kayak. The leaders decided
that the sea was safe enough for kayaking on this day.
After
some shore instructions on how to get in and out of the kayak
and how to roll out of the kayak while in the water, we started
our journey to the next beach. We
successfully made it out into the ocean and passed El Conchita,
the second highest peak in Trinidad. The waves
increased and we found ourselves in 5-6 foot swells. This
adventure was also a first time event for most of us. Some
of the group became seasick, but everybody trudged on. Our
two guides made sure that we avoided any dangerous areas so
we stayed well away from the treacherous rocky shoreline at
the point where we would turn.
As
our destination came into view, the guides gave us our last
bit of instruction. That was about how to get over the surf
and onto the beach. We put on helmets and were warned
that we might roll over in the process of crossing the surf.
One guide cleared the people from the area through
which we would be passing and the other sent us in one by
one. The first person in rolled over and as the
second I fully expected to do the same. When I
hit the surf, I remember very little except that I was sideways
against the waves yet still upright. The guides said
that what I did was surfing, a technique that they use when
they are having fun. Well, I accidentally used some
advanced technique, but most importantly, didn't roll.
Our
excursions were of moderate difficulty, but with the variety
of terrain in Trinidad, it is possible to accommodate all
skill levels from beginners to advanced.
Besides
the great outdoor opportunities in Trinidad, there are the
Trinidadians themselves. Their friendliness and welcoming
attitude to visitors made the experience one that I will never
forget. I have already bicycled extensively, but am
now thinking about my next kayaking and backpacking adventures.
By
the way, after your adventures you can still enjoy Carnival,
calypso and callaloo.
Happy
Traveling.
Facts
from CIA Handbook:
Nationality
– Trinidadian
Ethnic
Groups – black 39.5%, East Indian (a local term – primarily
immigrants from Northern India) 40.3%, mixed 18.4%, white
0.6%, Chinese and other 1.2%
Languages
– English (official), Hindu, French, Spanish, Chinese
Contact
info:
Courtenay
Rooks Tours - http://www.pariasprings.com/events/tours.html
Asa
Wright Nature Center -
http://www.asawright.org/
If
you have questions you may e-mail me at:
Theresa@photoandtravel.com
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