April 2004
In This Issue...
John's Travel Notes
Bed and Breakfast
Cruise Travel
Golf, Fly Fishing, and other innocent addictions.
International Travel
Resorts, Spas, and Destinations
Senior's Travel
RV and Camping
Travel Spotlights
Home

 

Trinidad Naturally


Theresa Russell

Carnival. Calypso. Callaloo. These three words might be the first that come to mind when you think about Trinidad . But, once you discover the abundant natural areas of this beautiful island you could substitute those first three words with bicycling, hiking and kayaking. Trinidad differs from the other Caribbean islands in that it was once attached to the South American continent and therefore exhibits features that are typical of that land mass. The mountains on the island are an extension of the Andes which boasts 430 species of birds and 617 species of butterflies and consists of several diverse ecosystems ranging from lowland swamps to mountain rainfore. A “don't want to miss” is the Asa Wright Nature Center is the destination for birdwatchers from around the world.

sts.

 

The first day of the tour consisted of road cycling from the Asa Wright Bird Center. This road climbed 900 feet over a mile and a half. A tough ride for the first ride of the season for an Ohio flatlander. But, as our guide was also an expert birder, we stopped to catch our breaths and spot birds in the jungle and learn about the natural history of the area. The reward for this continuous climb was a beautiful view of the valley below and a fast downhill into the town of Brasso Seco.

 

After some free time, we wolfed down a hearty dinner and spent some time playing cards with the local children who sang impromptu songs for us and engaged us in conversation. After dark we packed for the next segment of the trip, an overnight backpacking adventure to Paria Beach where we would camp and set up a watch to see the nesting leatherback turtles that come ashore to lay their eggs.

 

Our hike followed an old donkey path over a trail that has not been maintained for 80 years. However, it had been so well cut long ago that the trail has survived even without routine maintenance. Our two guides used their machetes to clear obstacles from the paths and pointed out the plants and their uses along the way. Several landslides made parts of the trail treacherous, but we safely negotiated any obstacles with the assistance of our excellent guides. We ate our lunch along a river where we purified water to replenish our supply for the rest of the day.  Finally we heard the sound of the surf and got glimpses of the Caribbean Sea.   The last bits of the trail descended to the beach and what a relief to finally place our feet on the sand. We set up camp and then frolicked in the ocean until dinnertime.  Although we were all tired from the walk, which was the first backpacking trip for most of us, we were also excited about the prospect of seeing the sea turtles come ashore.  We set up watches and those who tried for brief rests would be alerted when a turtle was spotted.

 

Around 2 a.m., the turtle alert went out and we all went to watch a turtle make its way back to sea. We had missed its arrival so continued our watch.  Around daybreak, we received another alert and hastened to the beach to see the huge leatherback making her way to the beach to find the perfect spot to lay her eggs.    She methodically dug a hole with her flippers, a feat that took a good half hour to accomplish.  We patiently waited and expected her to lay her eggs. In spite of us trying to be inconspicuous, she seemed to have been spooked and left the spot without laying.   She turned around and slowly made her way back to the sea. We returned to our tents for a few minutes of sleep, and I, for one, wondered how I would survive the next day on the little sleep I had had that night.

 

We started out the next day later than planned and immediately climbed back into the hills. We climbed up and down numerous times.  At the top of one climb we took a detour to a rock overlooking the sea.  The excellent view distracted us from the tired feet and sore shoulders that the group suffered.

 

After about 7 miles we finally reached the hotel just outside of Blanchisseuse.   For me, I think the idea of a hot shower, comfortable bed and sleep made the second day seem much easier than the first, but I was the only person in the group who felt this way.  We showered quickly and met for lunch.   A lagoon just a short walk from the hotel offered another spot for a quick dip and cooling off.    After our lunch, most of us chose to nap until dinner to make up for the lack of sleep from the previous night.

 

The next morning, we mounted our bicycles for a trip to Las Cuevas, the beach where we would start the kayaking portion of the tour.  The road started out with rolling hills and then suddenly transformed into long continuous climbs.   Eventually, we crested the top of the last incline and sped down to the beach where we abandoned the bikes in exchange for kayaks.  The seas had been rough earlier in the week, so we weren't sure until today about the status of the kayak portion of the trip.  Depending on the sea condition we would either sea kayak or river kayak. The leaders decided that the sea was safe enough for kayaking on this day.

 

After some shore instructions on how to get in and out of the kayak and how to roll out of the kayak while in the water, we started our journey to the next beach.   We successfully made it out into the ocean and passed El Conchita, the second highest peak in Trinidad.   The waves increased and we found ourselves in 5-6 foot swells. This adventure was also a first time event for most of us. Some of the group became seasick, but everybody trudged on. Our two guides made sure that we avoided any dangerous areas so we stayed well away from the treacherous rocky shoreline at the point where we would turn.

 

As our destination came into view, the guides gave us our last bit of instruction. That was about how to get over the surf and onto the beach.  We put on helmets and were warned that we might roll over in the process of crossing the surf.   One guide cleared the people from the area through which we would be passing and the other sent us in one by one.   The first person in rolled over and as the second I fully expected to do the same.   When I hit the surf, I remember very little except that I was sideways against the waves yet still upright.  The guides said that what I did was surfing, a technique that they use when they are having fun.  Well, I accidentally used some advanced technique, but most importantly, didn't roll.

 

Our excursions were of moderate difficulty, but with the variety of terrain in Trinidad, it is possible to accommodate all skill levels from beginners to advanced.

 

Besides the great outdoor opportunities in Trinidad, there are the Trinidadians themselves. Their friendliness and welcoming attitude to visitors made the experience one that I will never forget. I have already bicycled extensively,  but am now thinking about my next kayaking and backpacking adventures.

By the way, after your adventures you can still enjoy Carnival, calypso and callaloo.

 

Happy Traveling.

 

Facts from CIA Handbook:

 

Nationality – Trinidadian

Ethnic Groups – black 39.5%, East Indian (a local term – primarily immigrants from Northern India) 40.3%, mixed 18.4%, white 0.6%, Chinese and other 1.2%

 

Languages – English (official), Hindu, French, Spanish, Chinese

 

 

Contact info:

Courtenay Rooks Tours - http://www.pariasprings.com/events/tours.html

Asa Wright Nature Center - http://www.asawright.org/

 

 

If you have questions you may e-mail me at:

Theresa@photoandtravel.com