Changjiang, meaning long river is how the Chinese know it, but most foreigners call it by the name designated for just a small part of this mighty and 3rd largest river in the world. The Yangtze flows through eleven provinces in China and is in the process of having its life modified by the Three Gorges Dam Project. This project will protect the citizens from the devastating effects of major flooding, but will significantly change the scenery and life along the river. The dam project has also made parts of the river more easily navigable; not only opening up new itineraries for tourism, but also making commerce along the river simpler.

Passing through magnificent gorges, the Yangtze is ideal for a small cruise ship.

The newest and largest boat on the river, although by no means comparable to a large ocean-going vessel, is the Victoria Katarina. Owned by Chinese-Americans, Victoria Cruises offers several options for cruising this mighty river.

Luxuriously appointed, the Victoria Katarina was designed specifically for cruising this river. The owners included many personal touches and closely oversaw all aspects of the design of the ship. Being owned by the company makes this experience a superior one, as Victoria Cruises has total control over all employees of the ship from the crew to the captain. Leased ships come with some crew provided and they often don't share the same objectives as the cruise line, often making service inconsistent and not up to the expectations of the guests. Although small, there are many appreciated amenities onboard including a library, exercise room, bar, shop, internet café and spa.

The downstream tour starts in the bustling city of Chongqing , (Two Happiness).

The boat is docked in a basically undeveloped area of the river with very basic or few amenities. That means that guests will walk on the lot surrounding the riverbanks, which requires a bit of confidence. Guests with special needs will be assisted getting through this dicey spot of land before reaching the planks that finally reach the boat.

This entrance to the boat is not without its welcoming committee, who stand sentry every few yards to welcome guests aboard the ship. This is just a small hint of the service that one will find once onboard. The staff is pleasant and works hard to please guests. Whenever leaving from or returning to the boat, a full force of greeters and well-wishers from the staff line the way.

The staterooms onboard vary from the smallish standard cabin to the deluxe Shangr–La suites. In between are junior and superior suites, all tastefully decorated in soothing color schemes. Meals are buffet-style for breakfast and lunch, while dinners are served at the table from a pre-determined menu. Much of the food is Chinese, although some lunches included typically Western food like pizza and hamburger, which is a nice change from the usual fare.

The boat travels both overnight and during the day. The first stop is at Wanxian, a city that had many residents displaced by the dam project. From the dock, it is necessary to climb 125 steps to meet the tour buses. Don't expect a luxury coach awaiting you at the top of the climb. In fact, don't expect a decent place to board the bus as the land is still in the process of being prepared for the next raising of the river. In the future, there will be a nice facility for cruise passengers, which will be a great improvement over the current conditions.

This town is perhaps the ugliest of any. Even the new buildings that house the displaced residents seem somewhat dour. The shore excursion itself involves a visit to a Mao museum, a tour of a museum of bed culture, which focuses on antique beds, but is mostly a shopping spot, a museum with rocks found while working on the dam, a museum that shows the area and has a special exhibit on the hanging caskets, which can be seen along the next day's trip. Finally, there was a 5 minutes stop at the best part of the town. A colorful market livened up the otherwise dreary backdrop for this town. A variety of meats, produce and things unknown are for sale in this busy section of town.

The boat departs shortly after all passengers are back on board. The excellent river guide, Cathy, offers commentary on the sites along the way. The boat does pass through three spectacular gorges. Perhaps the most interesting excursion is the cruise on a smaller boat along a tributary river – the Daning. The impressionable gorges are close up and the scenery reminiscent of Chinese paintings. Along this section, it is possible to see two of the hanging caskets. Monkeys inhabit certain areas of this stretch. This is a perfect day to sit and relax and enjoy the scenery. As the river will be raised another 120 feet, it is a good time to explore this area to still see the dramatic gorges.

A trip to the dam site, a humongous project that has been in the planning stage for many years, gives visitors a chance to appreciate the magnitude of this project. A controversial project, the Three Gorges Dam will be the largest in the world. The cost of the project costs as much as the devastation from one major flood. The afternoon of this day is spent passing along some different scenery. This part of the river seems to have more people living along its banks. Pagodas, typical dwellings, and small boats are frequently seen in this area. It is a perfect day to sit on the top deck for a panoramic view of the great scenery.

This short, 3-night cruise passed quickly by. The Gorges remain spectacular in spite of the fact that the area has already been flooded once. Formerly high-up in the gorges, mountain paths are now at water level. It would have been nice to experience the river at its three different levels, but it is definitely still worth it to see it now before this scenery becomes hidden under the water.

Victoria Cruises offers several different itineraries and it is possible and recommended to combine a cruise with a land tour. Watch for the land tour info in an upcoming article.

Happy Traveling

Victoria Cruises - http://www.victoriacruises.com/english/index.php\

The Three Gorges Dam Project - http://www.chinaonline.com/refer/ministry_profiles/threegorgesdam.asp

If you have questions, you may e-mail me at:

Theresa@photoandTravel.com