Its ornate, sand-colored dome dominates the skyline from virtually every direction. Inside, enormous pillars lead the eye upward, past an intricate tangle of gold and white — the altar, a scene of Jesus in the Garden of Gethsemane, angels, a starburst gloriolae, and finally the elegant new organ. And then the eye goes up again, into the decorated dome itself.

Dresden’s restored Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady), which reopened in October 2005, is in many ways symbolic of this historic city. Devastating bombing raids by British and American forces in February 1945, not long before the end of the Second World War, destroyed this prime jewel in Saxony’s crown. Fires swept through the city, killing tens of thousands of inhabitants. In the end, only the stone shells of once-magnificent buildings remained.

The remains of the Frauenkirche, in particular, became a symbol and poignant reminder of the devastation of war. Gradually, the city began to rebuild — surprisingly, the Communists restored even some houses of worship. But the grim skeleton of the Frauenkirche remained, with

                                                                        many believing its reminder should be

                                                                        eternal.

Others felt differently. Just months after the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1990, a group of Dresdeners appealed to for restoration funds, particularly to the U.K. and U.S. Eventually money was raised from former enemies, and the restoration was completed. The tower is a landmark throughout the town, and for 8 Euros you can climb it and get a commanding view of the city.

Dresden’s Altstadt (old city) is a tumble of old and restored buildings in just a few blocks. Every turn is a delight, and you can navigate by the spires (the palace, the Hofkirche, the Kreutzkirche) and domes (the Kunstakademie and, of course, the Frauenkirche). Of the three churches, only the Hofkirche, the lone Catholic church, has the original Silbermann organ built in the 18th century. It’s a shame, because J.S. Bach is known to have played the instruments in the Frauenkirche and Kreutzkirche, and his son, Wilhelm Friedemann Bach, was organist at the Sophienkirche, which was destroyed in the war.

Indeed, Bach wanted to move to Dresden and become an opera composer, but it was not to be — he stayed in Leipzig and perfected the fugue and the church cantata. (I heard a brief concert on the Kreutzkirche’s new Kern organ, an impressive and flexible instrument.)

Opera there is in abundance in Dresden, which has had nine opera houses, starting in 1678. OPERA.JPG The city has hosted the likes of Heinrich Schutz, Carl Maria von Weber, Richard Strauss and Richard Wagner. The current opera house, called SemperOpera after its architect, Gottfried Semper, is also home to theatrical performances and the famous Dresden Orchestra.

It is an endlessly fascinating building, also completely restored. A wealth of fantasy creatures scramble on its roof; images of Shakespeare, Sophocles, Moliere and Euripedes adorn its front, and the entrance is topped by a giant Dionysus driving a chariot drawn by leopards. The restored building reopened in 1985, 40 years after the bombing, and was celebrated by a performance of Weber’s “Die Freischuetz,” which was the last work to be performed there before the destruction took place. I heard a fabulous performance of Wagner’s Goetterdammerung that was also impeccably and creatively staged (and which lasted from 5:30 to 11 p.m.!).

Right next door is an art gallery, also designed by Semper, which houses the largest collection of Italian masters north of the Alps, as well as a considerable number of Flemish and Dutch old masters. The building is beautifully designed, with two wings spreading from a central hall, through whose multiple doorways one can glimpse a riot of lush, sensual colors. Included in the exhibit was Giorgione’s “Sleeping Venus,” the first portrait of a naked woman. The prize of the collection is Rafael’s “Sistene Madonna,” with its focus on the connection between the divine and the viewer, and its two enchantingly bored cherubs.

Dresden triumphantly celebrates its repossession of these artworks — the museum was adorned with a sign, “Die Bildung sint da,” “The paintings are here.” During the war, the artworks were carefully evacuated, hidden in mines and otherwise protected from bombs. However, after Germany surrendered, the paintings were shipped to Moscow and Kiev, where the intent was to distribute them to local museums. After intense negotiations, the works were returned in 1955, and in 1956, the restored gallery reopened. My guide maintained that 400 works are still missing. (The museum closed between 1988 and 1992 for an additional facelift that left it in its current pristine condition.)

Across the Elbe River, whose bridges afford vistas of the Altstadt, is the Neustadt (new city), so called because it burned in 1685 and had to be rebuilt. It has more of the block housing one expects in East Germany, but the modern Albertsplatz, with its fountains, tourist shops and outdoor cafes, provides an attractive and functional gathering place. For only 1.50 Euros, you can climb the restored tower at the Dreikoenigskirche (Church of the Three Kings) and gaze at the spires and domes of the Altstadt. The interior of the church has been cut in half and now houses a gift shop, but the remaining sanctuary focuses on an altar from the 1730s that somehow survived the bombing and has been resituated in the new interior.

There are numerous hotels in Dresden for various price ranges. I stayed in the spanking new Hotel Maritim, which had only opened a month before, and was delighted with the setting and location. My room looked directly out on the beautiful Elbe and the spires of Neustadt, and it was within easy walking distance of the sights. The room was spacious and the lobby characterized by see-through elevators that soared above the intricate glass chandeliers. Although pricey, the hotel had an included breakfast-to-die-for that easily lasted me all day.

Perhaps the most interesting place to eat (and a must for Maritim guests) is the Yenidze, with its distinctive, mosque-like tower. The look of the building, while anomalous amid Dresden’s Baroque beauty, was deliberate — it was a cigarette factory that imported tobacco from Turkey, and stored it in the building that is now the Maritim. An enclosed elevator grumbles you up to the dome, where you dine in circular splendor, gazing at the city.

A word of warning: Under the Communists, children learned Russian in school, and few older people speak English. You will have a better time if you bone up on your German, as very few signs or menus are translated.

Happy Traveling!

Captions: 1. The Frauenkirche’s sumptuous decorations and brand new organ are part of the complete restoration since World War II.