The thickly forested mountain peaks had that impossibly jagged look one sees on Caribbean islands, and the mist that shrouded their tops made them seem ancient and mysterious, as indeed they are. No one quite knows where the name for Puerto Rico’s El Yunque rainforest comes from, but it is certain that the Amerindians believed a god dwelt there. The Spaniards called it “Mountain with White Veil.” Both descriptions were apt.

I was flying to the Caribbean on Frequent Flier miles, so of course the schedule was impossible: Leave Philadelphia at 7:30 a.m.; arrive Puerto Rico 10:30 a.m.; depart for Guadeloupe at 8:30 p.m.

During the layover on the way down, I took a taxi to a hotel on the beach for lunch, but it was really no fun to schlep my purse, carryons, etc. everywhere I went, including the hotel dining room. So on the way home from Guadeloupe (same schedule, of course!) I had a better idea — I booked a trip to the fabled rain forest. A driver picked me up at the airport, I could leave my stuff in his car, and at the end he whisked me back for my (delayed of course) flight to Philadelphia.

El Yunque is the last remaining eco-system cloud forest, now protected in a reserve, and is the only tropical forest in the National Park System.  It was protected by Teddy Roosevelt in 1903, and 1 million visitors a year visit this 15-mile stretch of reserve. It can be explored for a few hours or for a few days, as it is covered with paved trails that make hiking inviting. Indeed, just exploring the El Portal Rain Forest Center could consume an entire day, as it is filled with several floors of interesting exhibits. You should definitely start there, and at least watch the 10-minute movie that explains the efforts to restore and protect the habitat.

Although the area was protected by the Spaniards in 1876, it had already been largely denuded of trees. When the Americans acquired the island in 1898, they quickly moved to preserve El Yunque and began an impressive reforestation project. Millions of seeds were planted. Although the effort is invisible today, the green carpet that is now flung over the beautiful peaks is actually the result of careful planning.

Numerous species exist in this environment, including 8 species of the Anolis lizard and 13 of the 16 species of “coqui,” the little chirping frogs that are a trademark of the island. Fifty species of birds live in the forest, including the Puerto Rican Parrot, which has been hunted almost into extinction: There are only about 30 left in the forest. As a result, you almost never see them, but the movie at the visitor’s center shows charming views of this colorful bird with its distinctive green head. Scientists are engaged in various types of research in this very special habitat, especially focusing on water management.

Because time was limited, the driver took us on two short excursions, the first one to Yokahu Tower. We drove, but you can take the 45-minute hike up a narrow, paved trail. The tower provides wonderful views for miles around, from San Juan in the distance to the peak of El Yunque, shrouded in clouds. If you like, you can continue to hike all the way to the top, 3,496 feet in elevation.

We then drove to the trailhead for La Mina Falls, a sometimes steep descent, although the trail was beautifully paved. Along the way, there were signs identifying some of the flora, and the trees overhead were very beautiful. This is a popular destination for swimmers who can duck directly under the falling water. It was too cold to tempt me, however.

The reserve is only about 40 minutes from the airport and the ride was itself scenic and interesting. It also reveals the incredible sprawl that has become San Juan. Scientists say the increasing spread of roads and traffic — Puerto Rico has 3.9 million inhabitants and 3.2 million cars, and the most roads per area anywhere in the world — is affecting the cloud forest, which is receding. Indeed, 3,000 acres of the Northeast Ecological Corridor, which includes El Yunque, is threatened by plans for two golf courses and four new hotels. Residents and organizations such as the Sierra Club have been fighting those plans for years, but the fate of the area remains uncertain.

I was lucky to experience no rain in my trip to El Yunque, but rain gear, sturdy shoes and flexible knees are required for these well-paved but often steep trails, in many places made more passable by stairs. Happy traveling!

CAPTIONS: 1. The mysterious cloud forest is the only rainforest in the National Park system. 2. Yokahu Tower provides wonderful views of the preserve. 3. La Mina falls provides recreation for the hardy. 4. The sprawl of San Juan can be seen in the distant haze from Yokahu Tower, and more development threatens.