A sightseeing pleasure lies around every corner — literally. Walking around the Belgian capital of Brussels, trying to follow the inadequate maps of two guidebooks (memo: Buy a local map with all the streets marked!), it turned out it didn’t really matter where you went.

First, you can’t miss the Grand Place, which in some ways should be saved for last. It’s hard to capture in words the sheer immensity, coupled with the incredible attention to detail, offered by the buildings that ring the stone courtyard.

The oldest is the awesomely ornate Hotel de Ville, constructed between 1401 and 1459, whose height stretches the neck, while its intricate decorations stretch the eyes. The sheer number of carvings ringing the square boggles the mind and could take months to examine.

Other buildings around the Grand Place include the guild halls, mostly built towards the end of the 17th century, including those that housed the bakers, the boatman’s guild and the haberdasher’s guild. From these headquarters, the tradesmen established standards and worked to influence local politics.

The Maison du Roi (King’s House), which once was home to royalty, now housesthe Musee de la Ville de Bruxelles (Brussels Museum), three floors tracing Brussels’ past (if you can tear yourself away from the ornate decorations of the building itself). Paintings, sculpture, books and models allow the visitor to acquaint him- or herself with a history stretching back to the 9th century.

Another charming feature of Grand Place is the plethora of eateries that allow one to sample a variety of cuisines, while staring awestruck at one’s extraordinary surroundings.  At La Paon, I enjoyed the signature dish of mussels and French Fries — a strange but tasty combination.

The city is a mecca for cathedral-lovers, boasting no fewer than three Eglises de Notre Dame (Churches of Our Lady). On a random walking tour, I stumbled across the oldest one, Eglise Notre Dame de la Chapelle, a curious combination of Romanesque and Gothic architecture. From the outside, its plain, rather ugly spire made me think at first it was a government building. Inside, you are immediately struck by the deep chancel, sporting gorgeous narrow strips of stained glassMost other windows aren’t decorated, but the church is distinctive for housing the tomb of famed Flemish painter Pieter Breugel the Elder (c. 1526/1530-1569).

A series of fascinating paintings and the obligatory stations of the cross (these by Jan van Eycken) were balanced by photos of the church’s missions in other countries, notably India and Southeast Asia.

Chief among the non-religious sights is the Palais de Justice (Palace of Justice), an incredibly imposing building, less ornate than those in Grand Place, but impressive through sheer size. A modern elevator whisks you up to a walkway with stunning views of the city, then leads you to the enormous Palais, which took 17 years to build.

The other must-see, which actually turned out to be less than anticipated, is the Manneken Pis, fountain statue of the small boy urinating, which on my visit was decked out in a Hessian costume. It is smaller and less interesting than the hype would have you believe. However, it is surrounded by narrow, picturesque streets and interesting shops, offering, among other things, the famous Brussels lace and chocolate.

The city is a great place to eat. Besides the Grand Place, there are several streets of restaurants, primarily the Rue des Bouches (Street of the Butchers), a footpath lined with tables, where waiters vie humorously for your business. I succumbed to one of the first, Cote de Mer (On the Edge of the Sea — although, of course, this referred more to the fare than the location!). There I enjoyed a fabulous waterzooi of monkfish, a Belgian specialty of fish and vegetables in a divine cream sauce.

And it’s also a great place to drink if you enjoy beer. Local breweries number, by some estimates, up to 800, giving if nothing else a staggering variety. Historically, beer was supposed to prevent the plague, and the populace swallowed that recommendation whole! However, a caution to those who don’t care for fruity beers — lambic, the country’s most celebrated beer, comes in multiple fruit flavors such as cherry and strawberry.

I can also thoroughly recommend my hotel, Hotel Arlequin Grand Place, located right downtown within walking distance of the restaurants and the Grand Place. The rooms are spacious, airy and quiet, with spectacular views of the city, and the continental breakfast (included) is eaten in a panoramic restaurant where every seat is good.

There are some drawbacks to Belgium. I couldn’t find a single ATM that would recognize my bank card, including in the airport, and the city is quite dirty, with trash and cigarette butts everywhere. But these are minor problems that pale beside the architectural adventures at every turn.   Happy Traveling!

Captions: 1. Brussels appealingly combines European charm with the advantages of a city. 2. The town museum on the Grand Place once was home to royalty. 3. Servers bustle through the outdoor restaurants of the Grand-Place. 4. Notre Dame de la Chapelle’s deep chancel is lined with stunning narrow stained-glass windows. 5. Delicious seafood is on almost every menu.